Elliot and I are island people. Always have been. Some of our favourite memories come from chasing waterfalls in Iceland, swimming with sea lions in the Galapagos, and sailing along Croatia’s dreamy Dalmatian Coast. Naturally, when Madeira popped up on my Instagram, we knew it would be our trip. Lush, wild, surrounded by the ocean, and most importantly, as far away from home as possible.

First Impressions: Lush, Laid-Back, and a Tad Chilly

First, Madeira is stunning. Imagine a blend of Hawaii, Portugal, and the Swiss Alps – blended together with some Poncha (rum, honey, sugar, and juice). With jaw-dropping cliffs, cloud-kissed forests, and winding coastal roads, the island is a hiker’s dream.

If you’re planning to visit, learn from us. Pack for spring, not summer. We expected tropical heat but were greeted with a cool 17°C on most days. Thank goodness for light jackets and long sleeves. Despite the breeze, the scenery more than made up for it.

Our Accommodations: Wellness at Saccharum Resort

We stayed at the Saccharum Resort in Calheta, about 30 minutes (drive) from Funchal, Madeira’s main city. Saccharum was mystical in wellness with infinity pools, yoga classes, and a spa that practically whispered “come relax”.

To our delight, we were upgraded (for free!) from a junior suite to a full-blown suite with a private pool. Five days was not enough to do it all. We realized that we didn’t give ourselves more time to explore both the island and the resort. Rookie mistake.

Jeep Safari: Off-Roading in the Enchanted Forests

On day two, we joined a 4×4 Jeep tour of the northwest coast. Our driver, a gleeful Portuguese man, was determined to jostle us from our seats. Sitting in the back, Elliot sang, to the window, to the wall, as we bounced around.

In this Jeep, we cruised through Paul da Serra, the island’s highest plateau. Next, we ventured into the enchanted Fanal forest. Ancient trees stood in foggy silence, cows wandered freely, and Instagram influencers flowed in white dresses posed like forest nymphs.

The best part of the trip was a stop at Porto Moniz. Here, we swam in natural volcanic rock pools. Yes, the water was freezing. Yes, we jumped in anyway.

Canyoning: Cold Rivers and Cold Reality

If you’ve never rappelled down a waterfall, may I recommend trying it after three hours of sleep, a late dinner, and lingering jet lag? That’s how we kicked off our canyoning adventure in Ribeira das Cales, inside Funchal Ecological Park.

The trail we took, fittingly named “Cold River”, woke us up at the first plunge. We hiked, slid, jumped, and splashed our way through rocky terrain. In our group, other Canadians and Portuguese accompanied us. At least two Russian influencers joined us, posing for photos while screaming down the cliff.

Despite awkwardly hiding behind a tree while changing into the gear, this was a highlight of our trip. Our guides were fantastic and made sure we felt safe and encouraged. I came back with canyoning officially added to my “would do again” list.

Whale Watching: Bottlenose Dolphins and Burnt Noses

What’s the one thing you have to do in Madeira? The answer is whale watching. The Atlantic waters are home to more than 20 species of whales and dolphins. Skeptical Elliot was convinced we’d be squinting at the horizon and hoping for a fin. He was wrong.

Within minutes of heading out from Calheta, we saw bottlenose dolphins zipping ahead of the pontoon boat. Followed by pilot whales gliding through the waves in pods. At one point, a pod of 30 dolphins surrounded us. We ooed and awed while the guide shared her knowledge on the resident species.

Luckily, we also spotted the elusive and speedy visitors of the island – Risso’s dolphins. Gliding through the waves, they eluded the boat, swimming at an impressive speed. Fun fact: they’re known for being a little sassier and scarier than the rest.

Not-so-fun-fact: we underestimated the sun. The cool breeze disguised the UV, and we left the boat crispy. We started lathering sunscreen from that day onward.

Botanical Bliss (and a slight navigational mishap)

One of the most unexpected gems of our trip (and one we really should’ve planned better) was our visit to the botanical gardens. Home to a rich collection of plants, including some endangered species, the gardens are a tranquil paradise perched high above Funchal.

The best way to visit is by taking the cable car down the mountain. Naturally, we did the opposite. We arrived at the bottom of the mountain. We then took the cable car up. We did not realize that the hours of operation for the cable car were limited. Oops.

We were pressed for time. We only had an hour to explore the top. There, we discovered an entirely different garden: the Monte Palace of Madeira. With its prime hilltop location and sweeping views of Funchal Bay, this tropical wonderland felt like something straight out of a fairy tale. Koi ponds, lounging swans, exotic, imported plants, tiled walkways, and a touch of old-world opulence.

Sadly, we rushed through it, taking in the magic of the area before hopping back on the cable car. But, even that ride was stunning in its own right. Gliding high above the city and giving us a panoramic view of the mountainside and coast side.

Pro tip: make sure to research which direction the cable car goes. And definitely don’t skip the Monte Palace.

Tripping up the Stairway to Heaven

On our last day, we got up at an ungodly hour. We dragged ourselves out of bed to tackle Madeira’s legendary “Stairway to Heaven.” This jaw-dropping trail connects Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo. It has a particularly steep, staircase-like stretch that earns its heavenly nickname. Let’s be honest, it feels more like a stairway to leg day hell.

At 1,862 meters above sea level, the air gets thinner, and you start to feel a little woozy. (Altitude sickness: nature’s way of reminding you you’re not invincible.) Still, the views? Absolutely worth every breathless step.

I kicked things off by tripping dramatically at the trail head, giving nearby hikers a collective heart attack. Fittingly, I ended the hike the same way. I fell into the arms of a very surprised British tourist. Elliot looked on in dismay. Somewhere in between, I found time to scold Elliot for veering too close to the edge. I threatened to kill him if he fell off the mountain, in true loving partner fashion.

Ah, romance.

Getting Around: The Car Chronicles

If you want to see the island properly, rent a car. Yes, there’s Bolt and Uber, but they’ll cost you more than your match latte addiction back home.

We rented our car at the airport. We never looked back. That is, until we accidentally parked in a non-24-hour lot during the Atlantic Festival. Cue 1 a.m. panic, a pricey cab ride back to our hotel, and a very sleepy morning wake-up for our canyoning tour. Oops.

Pro tip: double-check parking hours, no matter what your resort receptionist says. Just trust me.

The Good: Fish, Fireworks, and Forests

Madeira is full of treasures. You can spend your days hiking cliff side trails, soaking in the salty air by the black sand beach, and diving into delicious fresh fish. You can walk into cloud-forests. See fish farms from the coast. Witness epic fireworks during festival season. Lastly, experience an overwhelming sense of calm that comes from island life done right.

The resort life is also top-tier. Whether you’re spa hopping, or just lounging with a cocktail, the pace is blissfully slow.

The Not-So-Good: Chill Vibes to the Max

If you’re hoping for wild parties, DJs, and all-night beach raves…Madeira’s probably not your scene. It’s more laid back than lit. Most people keep to themselves (including other tourists). While the locals are friendly, they’re also very relaxed about timelines, restaurant service, and problem-solving. One of our taxi drivers informed us that the Portuguese tell tourists what they want to hear. On a side note: everyone on the island is related to Cristiano Ronaldo.

Final Thoughts: A Dreamy Island Escape (with a few bumps)

If you desire something off the beaten path with breathtaking views, Madeira might steal your heart. It might also steal your parking money.

Would we go back? Absolutely. But next time, we’re bringing more layers and booking more time.